Sunnyslope will have to reinforce its asphalt and put up more traffic lights once the Valley gets wind of Burger Studio at Seventh Street and Mountain View Road. Almost hidden in a long and winding strip mall, this new café is serving up a full roster of burgers - half-pound slabs of meat that fall off the bun and are so packed with goodies I thought I'd go home with TMJ from trying to open my jaw wide enough to get a bite.
After ordering at the front counter, patrons squeeze through a narrow passageway to a handful of tables (more outside) that flank the open kitchen.
Burgers and sides: Ten different hamburgers with classic sides and appetizers, chicken tenders and salads. Go for the burger.
The medallions of zucchini ($4.25) are in a batter that must contain egg instead of only breading because they puff up, leaving air pockets between vegetable and crispy coating that trap more ranch dip when you double dip. They arrive sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese.
We would have considered these a meal in themselves if our burgers hadn't arrived in the nick of time to slow us down, though we still left the zucchini platter empty.
The "fresh ground steer" patties are free-formed, plump and sprawling across toasted buns whose quality equals that of the meat. No wonder - they're delivered freshly baked from the venerable Riccobono's Italian Bakery in Chandler, which is now owned by the Simply Bread company that opened in the Valley to rave reviews in 2006.
The Bacon Cheese Burger ($6.95) is topped with Cheddar cheese, applewood-smoked bacon, chipotle ranch dressing, lettuce, tomato and red onion. If you've developed the sorry habit of eating fast-food hamburgers, welcome back to meat that has flavor and cheese that comes all flowing and melty. You know the alternative: a square of something yellow that wouldn't melt on a Phoenix sidewalk in July.
Another side dish did rise to the occasion: sweet-potato fries ($2.55). Now ubiquitous across the Valley, sweet-potato fries are sometimes done right, sometimes soggy and greasy. Burger Studio's fries are cut flatter than most but remain crispy, free of grease and seem to have more sweet-potato flavor than lesser varieties. Don't share an order. Get your own.
Burger Studio calls its Caprese Burger ($9.95) its signature sandwich. Easy to see why. I'm usually a traditionalist when it comes to the all-American hamburger - ketchup, pickles, tomato. Maybe when I'm feeling exotic I'll do a slice of avocado.
But the Caprese is my new favorite. You'll need more than two hands to hold it together as you stretch your mouth around one of those fat patties topped with tomato, thick slices of fresh mozzarella cheese, a puddle of fresh pesto, spring mix greens and a balsamic reduction. Even with all that, you'll still enjoy the crunch of the toasted bun.
Don't feel wimpy if you only finish half. It's like eating two Quarter Pounders.
Non-burgers: The Chicken Burger ($6.95) is a nod to those who avoid red meat. It's not ground chicken but grilled breast meat with a lovely pesto mayonnaise sauce, Swiss cheese, red onion, tomato and lettuce. The chicken is tender, the condiments just right.
Burger Studio also serves ground-turkey burgers and veggie (Boca) burgers, both $6.95, and an egg sandwich, $4.95. Under the Kid's Studio heading are chicken strips ($4.95) and mini burgers ($4.95). And that's pretty much the whole menu.
Drinks: Try the root-beer float ($3.95) or a malt or shake.($4.95).
Bottom line: The more popular this place gets, the more crowded it's going to be. But there's plenty of room to set up tables in front of or on the adjacent shaded patio. If the name Burger Studio suggests chefs are artisans at work, then the name couldn't be more appropriate. These are burgers you could frame and hang on a wall.